Category Archives: Slow Food

Local St. Paddy’s

While I know that real Irish people (in Ireland) don’t eat corned beef, I have these culinary adventures on my list and today seemed like the right day to make my As-Local-As-It-Could-Be Reuben Sandwich.

rueben

The corned beef began as a brisket from Eagle Wood Farms. I followed Alton Brown’s recipe for corning, except instead of his spice list from faraway places, I got a pre-made mix of faraway spices from Penzey’s in Norwalk. I added salt and potassium nitrate (yes), not local. I brined it for 10 days, turning it every morning and evening. I cooked it with:

corned_beef

The sauerkraut began as cabbage from Sport Hill Farm, fermented per Sandor Katz‘s instructions. This would have been a great entry in the Westport Market’s cabbage contest, but there wasn’t enough time for the fermentation. It’s been fermenting for several weeks now. This is not my first attempt, but it is my first attempt that worked!

fermenting_sauerkraut

I made the rye bread following Martha Stewart’s recipe (mostly).

  • bread flour – red hard spring wheat from Wild Hive
  • rye flour from Wild Hive
  • honey from Swords and Plowshares
  • butter from Smyth’s Trinity Farm
  • yeast and salt: not local. I didn’t use caraway seeds.

Color me delightfully surprised when the loaf really did “tip out” of the loaf pan!

rye_bread

The Swiss cheese is Cry Baby from Arethusa Farm Dairy. (Thank you, Lisa from New Morning! I owe you big time.)

The dressing. Sigh. Should it be Thousand Island or Russian? What constitutes an authentic recipe of either? Here’s what I made:

dressing

Served with a dill pickle, fermented right here. Original cucumbers from Daffodil Hill Growers.

And that’s my sandwich. I hope you had a happy St. Paddy’s Day!

 

Rendering Tallow

As you may have noticed, I let things go around here for awhile. It came down to eating locally or blogging about eating locally, and I picked eating. I may do a catch up post of some challenge meals, since I have the pictures or I may not. We’ll see how it goes.

One of the most exciting things I did this winter was to render my own tallow! It was easy and I made a healthy, delicious, high-heat cooking oil with my own two hands (and a crock pot).

In case you’re wondering, tallow is what you get when you melt down beef, lamb, or bison fat. Some call that fat suet. If you liked the analogies portion of your SATs: beef fat (suet) is to tallow as pig fat is to lard.

Like lard, tallow is a high-heat fat, which means you can deep fry with it. Since I won’t use Crisco or canola oil, I’ve been looking for a good substitute. (Funny/ironic, since tallow and lard were the originals and Crisco and canola are the substitutes!)

Since I didn’t know what I was doing, I went over to CheeseSlave‘s site where there’s there’s a ton of information, including this interesting fact from Sally Fallon Morell:

…the first recorded heart attack in America was in 1921 (Source: Local Forage). Just 10 years after Crisco (hydrogenated cottonseed oil) and 50 years after margarine (clarified vegetable fat) were introduced to the American people.

I wonder—why do government agencies make such a fanfare whenever they come up with a new rule, but barely a whisper when they’re proven wrong and it’s time to retract? (Off the top of my head, I’m thinking about their major faux pas with margarine vs. butter and the assault on eggs with that cholesterol fiasco).

Anyway…here’s the fat, still in its vacuum-sealed packages.

CheeseSlave said to grind it but I don’t have a grinder so I just cut it up into smaller pieces.

CheeseSlave gives instructions for a stove top method, an oven method, and a crock pot method.

I opted for the crock pot method. I had 3-1/2 lbs of fat and put that on low for 13 hours.

After that, I strained it through a mesh sieve, then a coffee filter.

I stored it in mason jars.

I read elsewhere that it will keep for about a month, three or more in the refrigerator—but I don’t know the actual time. As of now, it’s kept 3-1/2 months on my counter top.

I fried potatoes for french fries, sweet potatoes as chips, and celeriac as an experiment. All were fabulously delicious.

Celeriac Fries, sorced from Riverbank Farm via New Morning
French Fries, sourced from Maple Bank Farm
Sweet Potato Fries, sourced from Sport Hill Farm

Take special care in disposing of used fat. When dried, it has the consistency of crayons. I’ve been warned not to pour it down the drain, even with very hot water. I let the grease harden and scrape it into the garbage.

Next time, I’m going to try the oven method and way more than 3-1/2 pounds of fat!

Occupy the Kitchen

Before Occupy Wall Street and even before the financial collapse of 2008, local foodies have been well aware of the negative effects of the special relationship between corporations, our elected officials, and the government agencies created to look out for the interests of the people.

In the years since this compact between huge corporations and the government began, we’ve seen an increase in chronic illnesses, obesity, type 2 diabetes, and a glut of some of the most hideous phood products in history. We’ve seen the methods of food production become more industrialized and along with that, an increase in pollution, soil depletion, and food contamination and a decrease of nutrient density. We’ve seen a decrease in the number of farms and farmers while the remaining farms are concentrated in the hands of a few corporations.

In the interest of full disclosure, I haven’t been to any of the Occupy locations (although there’s an Occupy New Haven) and I’m waiting to see more before I decide if the occupations are a good idea, but I do agree with the premise: that it is time for the 99% to stop tolerating the greed and corruption of the 1%and their purchase of our legal and political systems.

So, I’m occupying the kitchen. As you may know, I am a local foodie (locavore) year ’round. Every dollar I don’t spend at Stop and Shop is a dollar that goes to the actual producers in my town, state, region. I like handing those dollars directly to the people who did the work. I realize that one person eating locally does not effect vast and sweeping change, but I believe in what Margaret Mead said: “Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it’s the only thing that ever does.”

I live in New England and I’m no Eliot Coleman (even in the summer), so I count on others to raise my food for me. So, at this time of year, I’m working like a squirrel, storing food for the winter. (More of a pre-occupation than an occupation.)

I invite you to Occupy the Kitchen too. Try putting at least one local food away to consume over the winter. It doesn’t matter what or how—you can freeze it, can it, dehydrate it, ferment it, whatever you like. In addition to being additive free, each item you put by is one less item you have to buy from a Big Corporation.

My Occupy the Kitchen project today was dried garlic. I peeled and sliced the garlic and dried it in the dehydrator at 120 degrees until they were crispy. I’ll grind them in a spice mill and have my own garlic powder.

There are lots of resources available for putting by foods, including your search engine if you don’t want to buy a book. I’m personally fond of Put ‘Em Up, by Sherri Brooks Vinton. I hope you’ll decide to try this at least once.

There are some good reads on the Internet on the intersection of the food movement with the Occupy movement. Steph Larson at  Grist has a great article:

I believe one fundamental way to rebel against an unjust economic system is to grow my own food. This way, my primary means of sustenance is out of the hands of corporations. Most food sold in grocery stores — even organic food — is owned by a few, very consolidated agribusinesses. Growing your own food undercuts their power.

The 99 percent movement has been criticized for not having a specific policy agenda, but I agree with George Lakoff; this is about a lot more than policy. It’s about our collective values as Americans. Growing food, bartering, and supporting local businesses are only a few of the many ways to wrestle power away from corporations and put it back in the hands of the people.

Also check out the articles by Kristin Wartman at Civil Eats as well as Tom Philpott at Mother Jones, where he says, “Because Big Food makes Big Finance look like amateurs.”

As it happens, there’s going to be an occupy against big food event at Zucotti Park (Occupy Wall Street) on October 29 at 1 PM.

In closing, I leave you with this image of my current favorite sign from the occupation:

. .

Note: This post is shared at Hartke’s Blog Carnival.

 

Slightly less quick quiche

I can’t believe it’s already time for the Dark Days Challenge and I can’t believe it’s already the 4th! Thanks Laura at (Not so) Urban Hennery for hosting this again.

My first post of the challenge is an easy quiche, based on this recipe, designed for minimal kitchen prep time. I slowed the recipe down a bit for the challenge.

Food sources:

Not bad. (Good enough for seconds.)

http://urbanhennery.com/